Madrid, Spain

Madrid was just as fantastic as Lisbon for the same reason: our kids. I honestly cannot recall a single time that I was annoyed by them or wanted to get away from them on this trip. It sounds preposterous, I know. Surely I must have a selective or defective memory? Because all I remember is feeling so appreciative and grateful and happy, not in spite of them but specifically because of them. Experiencing Machu Picchu with my husband was unforgettably spectacular, but I cherish our Lisbon and Madrid experiences in a way that could never be possible without our kids. They were the most amazing troupers through to the very chaotic end.

The walking food tour I wanted to do in Madrid didn’t permit guests under the age of 12, so we created our own food tour by eating our way through the city. By the end of the day we had logged over 18,000 steps according to the tracker in our cell phones, which tends to underestimate. The kids certainly did many more steps because they would often run, skip, or twirl ahead of us and then backtrack. They did this day after day, excursion after excursion. We booked only one sightseeing tour of city highlights, including the El Escorial Monastery, and once again the kids thoroughly impressed our tour guide with their stamina. Not only were they capable of walking astonishing distances, they could could appreciate non-kid-centered activities. On a particularly wet and chilly day, we wanted to remain indoors and decided to visit some museums. We explored masterpiece collections in Museo del Prado, admired contemporary art in Museo Reina Sofía, and toured the Royal Palace, with the kids following every step of the way. I was more captivated watching my child be captivated by art than I was by the art itself.

I loved how the kids made fun things more fun, but I loved them even more through the ordeal of returning home. It was a stressful, grueling process that took, door-to-door, over 24 hours: rising before dawn, braving inclement weather, rushing to catch metro trains, panicking over expired tickets, waiting in line, navigating airports, dealing with luggage transfers, making plane connections, surviving layovers, going through customs, searching for taxis, and battling crazy jet lag and exhaustion. I don’t think many full-grown adults (including my mother) could have endured the trip with as much grace. I’m not claiming that my kids were perfect 100% of the time and that absolutely zero tears were shed, but the amount of whimpers were so minuscule, so understandable, and so justifiable under the circumstances, that our mutual suffering made me love them just as much as our mutual joy.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SQl3M14iweHZzUpt1

 

Lisbon, Portugal

We wanted to take the kids on a cool trip for spring break and decided on Lisbon and Madrid. Lisbon because someone told us that it was the best kept secret of European capitals: a smaller, safer, more affordable version of Paris. Madrid because we had never been to the Spanish capital and, well, we really like jamón ibérico?

Ok, Lisbon is a lovely city but it’s no Paris. Not even close. Our first impression wasn’t stellar because we arrived on a drizzly gray afternoon and the smell of urine was the first thing that struck us when we emerged from the underground metro station. Our apartment rental overlooked a centrally located but dilapidated plaza. We liked that so many of Lisbon’s popular attractions and neighborhoods were easily accessible on foot, even with a 5- and 7-year-old in tow. But the cuisine, while perfectly enjoyable, simply did not rival Parisian cuisine. I’m also biased because I prefer larger cities in general.

The key element that made this trip so enjoyable was, incredibly, the company of a 5- and 7-year-old! I couldn’t quite believe it myself. Not that I don’t enjoy the company of my husband, alone. In fact, I expected to enjoy our solo trip to Machu Picchu much more than our family trip to Europe, because parenting while vacationing usually feels more like aggravation than vacation. Anyone who’s traveled anywhere with a kid knows how stressful the experience can be. But my kids really rose to the occasion, so much so that I have to devote the rest of this post, and probably the next, to bragging about them.

First of all, they made everything more fun. A stroll along the waterfront went from being merely pleasant to a rollicking adventure. They raced from one spectacle to the next, chattering and giggling incessantly, while we trailed behind, chuckling at their antics. They were and are so full of unbridled joy, so eager to leap headlong into new experiences, and laughter erupts so freely from their smiling lips, that it’s hard not to be infected by happiness just by being around them. I can’t even explain how happy they make me feel. Sometimes my happiness is so exquisite that it borders on pain. There is something so precious, so beautiful, so utterly captivating about their childishness. They’ve mastered what I’ve been striving to practice by going to yoga for the past year: mindfulness. They live entirely in the present moment, hold no grudges from the past, neither cling to resentment or fear, nor worry about the future. Their innocence is the antidote to our cynicism, allowing us to experience the world with fresh perspective. What a wonderful gift children give to their parents.

I remember my first trip to Europe, when, long before having kids, I first set foot in Paris and felt completely awestruck. Unfortunately, after a while the novelty and luster of traveling abroad wears off, the scenery tends to blur together and you start feeling like if you’ve seen one European plaza or statue, you’ve seen them all. Then you have kids and you’re awestruck watching them. You see the world through their eyes and everything is new and fresh and exciting again, until you remember that they’re not going to be kids forever, and one day they’ll be jaded and cynical adults like their parents, and your heart breaks because you wish you could freeze them in time so they never change. And knowing this is not possible breaks your heart even more, even as you strive to enjoy the present moment, to sear the memory of their wide-eyed faces into your brain, and the moment becomes bittersweet and almost painful because it is so perfect and fleeting. This is how my kids make me feel every day.

They’re definitely not perfect angels all the time. It’s still a pain in the ass to take them to the grocery store. They act weird and embarrass us around other people. But they are truly, unbelievably amazing when they travel with us. I’m not completely biased and delusional because strangers tell us all the time what great kids we have. We went on two tours in Lisbon and our kids proved themselves to be the best kids ever.

The first tour was supposed to be a four hour walking food tour of Lisbon that turned out to be closer to six hours. We met the tour guide, Pedro, and the rest of the tour group in the center of town. The other tourists were mostly older couples from all over Europe and a handful of folks from the U.S. Our kids were the only children in the group. As everyone introduced themselves, I saw a few people eye my kids nervously, and I realized the other adults probably didn’t look forward to spending the evening with a 5- and 7-year-old. When I booked the tour, it didn’t even occur to me that walking to various locations all over town to sample Portuguese tapas and wine might not be a kid-friendly activity. We had never taken our kids on a food tour before but I had just assumed they would be fine. And they were more than fine, they were delightful. By our third stop, the rest of the group was thoroughly impressed by how well-mannered and good-natured our kids were. They were used to walking long distances and sampling new foods, especially the boy. He’s already a foodie and literally makes the “nom nom” sound when he chews. Watching him eat with such gusto makes me laugh, and makes me hungry. I love how he’s so open-minded about trying new foods because he assumes he’ll enjoy it. The girl, on the other hand, can be pressured into trying new foods but she generally assumes she won’t like it. She developed a peculiar habit on this vacation, which was to position herself next to whichever tour guide was leading the tour and stay glued there. Both kids, especially the girl, became very attached to all of our tour guides and would shadow them, often holding hands with them.

The night ended at a secret restaurant cloistered in what appeared to be an office building. We sat across a German couple who marveled at how patient and calm our kids were, and compared them to their same-aged grandchildren who would have whined and pouted and demanded to leave. The couple explained that their grandchildren never would have been able to sit through a restaurant meal, let alone endure a walking tour of the city. I nodded sympathetically and felt sorry for other parents. At the completion of the tour, several members of the group, including the tour guide Pedro, came up to us to praise our kids. Pedro said they were adorable and they both hugged him goodbye.

We had a similar experience on our last day in Lisbon. We booked a full day excursion to tour various famous landmarks in Lisbon as well as Pena National Palace in the neighboring town of Sintra. Due to a booking glitch, our guide Hugo ended up giving our family a private tour. By early afternoon, Hugo had become so enamored with our kids that he was taking pictures of them on his own phone (which sounds creepy but didn’t feel creepy in context), offered to accompany us through Pena National Palace even though that portion wasn’t included in our package, and gave us a behind-the-scenes tour of the gardens that other tourists (allegedly) never received. We left Lisbon the following day and upon our arrival to Madrid, received a private message from Hugo letting us know how much he enjoyed being our tour guide, and that he missed our kids.

Boston layover:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PRXQEC3qEP0S2JOl1

Lisbon:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tsOVYRJu272jYJ1F2

 

The Girl’s 7th Birthday Party

I can’t say this enough: our children are so lucky to have us as parents. They really won the birth lottery. Sure we’re lucky to have them too or whatever, but how many parents will throw you a birthday party at the aquarium and, knowing that you love all things aquatic, will even make a real live mermaid appear? The best parents ever. Just sayin’.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xw61CAJwVzDeb7sz2

 

 

Peru: Cusco, Machu Picchu, and a little Lima on top

Not gonna lie, tears were shed. And they were not happy tears. They were more like, “Are you fucking kidding me, I’m about to lose my shit” kind of tears. Ahhh, the joys of a long-awaited and eagerly anticipated vacation. The more you look forward to it, the more the fates will be tempted to fuck with you. Something will go wrong. It always does.

I’d always wanted to visit Machu Picchu ever since my sister told me it was the prettiest destination she’d ever seen. A few months ago we were planning a trip to Las Vegas for a wedding and decided to tack on a week-long vacation to Peru. My mom was flying to Denver to take care of the kids, we had never been to South America before, why not? I began feverishly researching and planning a detailed itinerary. I read countless hotel reviews. I figured out how to purchase Machu Picchu tickets directly from Cusco’s Minister of Culture – through its Spanish language website – to avoid paying middleman fees to booking agents. I pored over train schedules to determine the best routes from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (the town bordering Machu Picchu that is accessible via only train or trekking). By the time we embarked on our vacation, I had crafted the perfect itinerary.

Upon arrival to Cusco on a Tuesday afternoon, I asked our hotel for assistance with hiring a driver for a tour of the Sacred Valley on our way to Machu Picchu. We needed to arrive to the Ollantaytambo station by no later than Thursday evening to catch a train to Aguas Calientes because we had tickets to see Machu Picchu on Friday and Saturday. The hotel porter casually asked if we had heard about the city-wide strike scheduled for Wednesday and Thursday, pursuant to which there would be NO transportation available for the next two days. Um, what? No trains, no buses, no taxis, no drivers, absolutely nothing for TWO DAYS. The two days during which we somehow had to get to Ollantaytambo and then to Aguas Calientes, a journey that takes several hours by rail and several days on foot. I had a minor heart attack but tried to keep my cool as I asked, “Is there any chance the trains will still run despite the strike?”

“There’s a chance,” the porter replied, giving me false hope that would be shattered over the course of the next 48 hours. All I could do was cross my fingers and pray that the travel gods would be merciful. They were not.

We set off to explore the city on foot. The sight of hundreds (maybe thousands?) of protestors swarming the streets and public squares of Cusco, and law enforcement officers uniformed in riot gear, was electrifying. It was like something out of a history book. At first we didn’t understand the cause of the strike, which made us nervous. Were they protesting foreign tourists? Did they resent us? We later learned that native locals organized the strike to protest government corruption in connection with selling and leasing national property rights. A completely worthy and sympathetic cause, but my initial selfish reaction was, “Why can’t some other rich people’s vacation be ruined?”

When we were later told that no train reservations were available until Sunday (not what I wanted to hear, considering the fact that our Machu Picchu tickets were valid for only Friday and Saturday), my minor anxiety attack threatened to erupt into full blown panic. After multiple trips to the local PeruRail office, many hours of waiting to speak to an agent, various frustrating attempts to book and re-book train tickets, we were finally able to snag seats that would get us to Aguas Calientes before noon on Friday. From the Aguas Calientes station it was a half hour bus ride up the mountain to reach the Machu Picchu entrance. The site closed at 4:00 P.M., so if all went smoothly, we would be able to explore Machu Picchu for at least a couple of hours on Friday, and still had all day on Saturday.

Did you really think all would go smoothly? Did you?? Hint: FUCK NO.

When we boarded the PeruRail train on Friday morning and breathed a sigh of relief as it pulled out of the station, I was lulled into a temporary state of cautious optimism. We were finally on our way to Aguas Calientes! We enjoyed the pleasant ride — taking pictures of the lush scenery gliding past our window panes, the snacks served by the crew — until, about 45 minutes away from Aguas Calientes, the train mysteriously slowed to a complete stop. We thought nothing of it at first; maybe it was a routine stop. But as the minutes continued to tick away, and crew members spoke Spanish in hushed tones to the tour guides on board, the pounding of my heart grew progressively faster and fiercer. It turned out that another train had broken down directly ahead of us, so we were effectively trapped until that train could be repaired. It wasn’t possible to estimate how long the repair would take; it could be minutes, it could be hours. In my mind I immediately started counting down how much time was left until Machu Picchu closed for the day. Every minute stuck on the train was a minute deducted from our precious time experiencing Machu Picchu, the sole reason we had traveled so far and for so long. I stifled my mounting hysteria as I cursed the fates. Why did we have to end up on this train? WHY DID I CHOOSE THIS TRAIN? Previously, I had decided against taking a train that departed slightly earlier because it meant waking up at an ungodly hour, and we wouldn’t have gotten to our destination that much sooner, or so I thought. But now I realized with devastating self-reproach that if only we had taken the earlier train, we wouldn’t be stuck behind the stupid broken down train. What are the chances that another train would break down right in front of us, less than an hour away from our destination? WHAT. THE. FUCK.

I’m not sure exactly how long we were delayed but I know it felt a lot longer than it was. Eventually, all the passengers were instructed to disembark, walk through a tunnel past the broken down train, and board a rescue train brought from the Aguas Calientes station. The situation would have been comical if I hadn’t felt so tragically aggrieved. One of the tour guides kept looking at her watch, worried that her tour group wouldn’t make it to Machu Picchu in time. When she found out we had tickets for Saturday as well, she insisted we were extremely lucky because her group had only one shot to see Machu Picchu that Friday afternoon. At the time I wasn’t in a very appreciative mood and didn’t feel at all lucky for having to pay twice the fare for the privilege of receiving half the benefit.

By the time we reached Aguas Calientes a little after two o’clock in the afternoon, we were faced with a tough call: should we pay close to an additional $50 for a half hour bus ride up to Machu Picchu (on top of the entrance tickets, which were sunk costs), leaving us with barely an hour to explore, or should we cut our losses and just resign ourselves to seeing Machu Picchu on Saturday only? We decided to decide on the way to the bus station, which was supposed to be a five minute walk from the train station. But it’s a five minute walk only if you know where you’re going. Which we did not. In a panic, Tom dashed off through the outdoor market and down a flight of stairs as I followed in hot pursuit. At that precise moment, the heavens unleashed a torrential downpour, flooding the stone stairway and pavement in a matter of seconds and pummeling us with rain. I felt like I was being flushed down a toilet. My clothes, my socks, my shoes, every inch of my skin was sopping wet. We huddled underneath a nearby restaurant awning and wearily accepted defeat.

We trudged through town asking for directions and finally made our way to the hotel. A cold, clammy, unwelcoming hotel, a last minute substitute for the nicer hotel that I had booked months earlier but which had cancelled our reservation when we weren’t able to arrive on the scheduled date. Such was our luck. As soon as we entered our crappy hotel room, right around the time the bus would have been arriving to Machu Picchu, the rain stopped and the sun broke through the clouds. The travel gods were straight up mocking me at this point and it was the final straw. I broke down, blubbering and slobbering in the most pitiful and undignified way. I cried the way I cried when I was a little kid, tears streaming down my cheeks, snot pouring from my nostrils, a long list of grievances tumbling out of my mouth interrupted only by the occasional hiccup: “I’m so sick and tired of everything going wrong I don’t want anything else to go wrong why is this happening to us why did it have to be fucking pouring raining when we were trying to buy bus tickets and now it’s sunny and we could have been exploring Machu Picchu right now if only we had found the bus station and you didn’t even know where it was and you took off running like you knew where it was but you didn’t and you got us lost and we missed our chance to see Machu Picchu today we’re going to have to throw away these tickets there’s no way they’re going to give us a refund those jackasses I hate them all it’s your fault because I planned everything perfectly and it all got messed up what are the fucking chances that a train would break down right in front of us why did we have to get on that stupid goddamn train what are the chances that a strike would happen right when we got to Peru why did the strike have to completely stop all transportation everywhere what if tomorrow gets messed up too and we never get to see Machu Picchu because WE HAVE THE WORST LUCK EVER!!!!!!!!”

I’m not proud of my behavior, especially the pity party and lashing out at Tom, and I freely admit to reacting very poorly. Up to that point Tom had reassured me that everything would turn out fine and I was pissed that everything had not turned out fine. I was terrified that bad luck would continue to plague us. Tom was the constant voice of reason, pointing out how lucky we were to have the means to take this trip. We decided we wanted to go to Peru so we went. How many people are able to do that? The strike started the day after we arrived. How lucky were we to be able to take a taxi from the airport and not have to drag our luggage for hours through town like the poor travelers we saw arriving to Cusco after the strike had already started? So we’ll get to see Machu Picchu for one day instead of two. Plenty of people allot only one day for Machu Picchu, and many were able to glimpse it for only an hour before they had get on a train right back to Cusco to catch their flights. Some people traveled thousands of miles and had to miss it altogether because of the strike. Plus we got to stay in two of the nicest luxury hotels in Cusco, one of which had a butler. A fucking butler who made us Pisco Sours on demand. We were not pitiable victims of fate. Yes, I understood all that but sometimes I just want to whine and vent like a spoiled brat. Not because I am a spoiled brat, necessarily, but because I hate wasting money. And because I’m an OCD control freak, I hate when things don’t go according to plan. A meticulously researched, well-laid plan. What’s the point of being prepared when shit inevitably blows up in your face?

Fortunately the rest of the trip went relatively smoothly, even though we never were able to negotiate any refunds or compensation from Cusco government officials or PeruRail for our inconvenience. There was a brief period when we were waiting in what appeared to be an interminable line for the bus up to Machu Picchu that I worried we wouldn’t make it to the entrance in time for our Huayna Picchu hike, but we got to hike Huayna Picchu, the neighboring mountain, and Machu Picchu, to our heart’s content. There was one point late in the afternoon when Tom collapsed from exhaustion and told me to go on without him. Maybe one day was enough after all. We boarded a train back to Cusco that evening, happy and exhausted, and utterly contented that we had seen what we had come to see.

The next day, Sunday, I toured the Sacred Valley on my own because work demands required Tom to be chained to a computer all day. I’m not one who enjoys traveling solo but our Sacred Valley tour had to be postponed because of the strike and it would have been a waste to spend the day in a hotel room watching Tom work. So I abandoned my husband Sunday morning and boarded a bus. Thinking it would be awkward to spend the whole day in silence, I struck up a conversation with the gal sitting next to me, who turned out to be a lovely young woman. She was fun and interesting to talk to, so I invited her to join me and Tom for tapas at a local bar later that night. I don’t know if I’ll ever see her again, but incidents like that make me believe that everything happens for a reason, and people come in and out of your life for purposes that you seldom fathom but definitely appreciate.

We spent Monday on another tour of the surrounding region, and then it was time to start our journey back home. We had a fairly lengthy layover in Lima so I urged Tom to take a taxi to see a little bit of the capital city before our flight. He was not happy about it, but the airport waiting area was so depressingly dreary that he reluctantly agreed to go. Lima has a reputation for being seedy and sometimes even downright hostile to tourists. Driving through the sketchy outskirts of town was a pretty intimidating experience, and I started having doubts about the prudence of exploring a crime-ridden city in the dark of night. I hid my anxiety from Tom because I was the one who forced him to go, shaming him for being chicken, for not being adventurous. When we got dropped off in the central plaza, my fears evaporated. It was charming and reminiscent of European squares. We stuck to well-lit, crowded areas, enjoyed some drinks at a café as well as a snack of grilled chicken from a popular local chain, and then headed back to the airport for an uneventful trip to the U.S.

Overall, our trip to Peru was a success despite some rocky patches. Machu Picchu was truly as stunning, breathtaking, and worthwhile as its hype. The sight of it inspired such indescribable joy, delight, and gratitude in my soul. But what I ended up being most grateful for was my ever patient, ever rational and reasonable, ever loving, calm and calming, forgiving, accommodating, best friend and travel companion.

Cusco:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pfh0qbIKI98HqyGL2

Cusco Hotels:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/e8WpcbOyc1BwIQyo1

Machu Picchu:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lMsOs5QZ1eLNOaMZ2

Sacred Valley:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aL72n9L3zB2sB2P03

Peruvian Cuisine:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lFoqNpXw48N8fucz1

Lima:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lY87cCYgtrLI7mdQ2

Miami Layover:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7LVcUKSpR0omSk4z1

 

The First Day of School

I’m such a hot mess right now. The boy started kindergarten and the girl started second grade today and I feel positively overwhelmed. Not because I’m actually doing anything, mind you, but because there are so many things I want to do and even more things that I want to want to do but don’t actually want to do. I thought I would have a game plan in action by the time the kids started school, but I don’t have anything other than a bunch of random goals. I’m often asked what I’ve been up to since I retired and the question stresses me out because I don’t have a good answer. I’ve been telling people that I have more on my “to-do” list than my “actually doing” list. The problem is now that I’m unemployed and no longer have to abide by a rigid schedule, I’ve become a total spazz. Or maybe I have ADHD. If someone isn’t holding a gun to my head forcing me to stay up all night to draft a purchase agreement, I find I’m incapable of staying focused on any particular project for a sustained amount of time. I can’t seem to finish what I start. My retired personality appears to be the polar opposite of my working personality. I used to be such a taskmaster, relentlessly pursuing each task to completion even as the ever-growing pile of duties and obligations buried me. Now duties and obligations have been replaced with hopes and dreams and I can’t get shit done. And it’s really random, bizarre shit, like:

  1. Organizing my life, specifically my house and more specifically, my closet. I’m doing a massive purge and trying to donate about 75% of our clothes. Thankfully a friend visited a couple of weeks ago and took a lot of my work clothes off my hands, but I have still have bags and bags of the kids’ stuff lying around that need to be driven to Goodwill or sent to relatives. I just can’t seem to muster the energy to collect all the bags, throw them into the car and make the multiple trips necessary to expel them from my life. I also tried jumping on the Japanese decluttering bandwagon, currently all the rage on Pinterest, by implementing certain organization techniques espoused by Marie Kondo in her crazy book which advises you to consider your clothing’s feelings. I can’t believe I just wrote that sentence. I’m supposed to fold all of our clothes into beautiful little envelopes and store them in decorative boxes so that they look like fabric origami and evoke joy. After two full days of washing and folding laundry, I realized that washing and folding laundry is boring as hell and my clothes neither look like origami nor evoke joy. So now I have half-organized drawers and half-organized storage boxes everywhere, the children’s rooms are a mess, our bedroom is a mess, my closet is a mess, and I never want to fold another piece of laundry again in my life.
  2. Finish reading my friend’s sexy vampire novel. At the beginning of the summer I loosely committed to reading and commenting on a friend’s draft of a novel that’s supposed to convert him from a patent attorney into a literary superstar. I’m only one of dozens of people who offered to read his draft and I think at this point he’s already submitted it to publishing agents so there’s no point in me continuing to edit the old version I have. Sigh, if only I operated based on logic and efficiency. I have this thing where I can’t start a new book unless I finish the book I’m reading, and this quirk apparently applies to draft novels as well (it’s a real compulsion — I didn’t read anything non-work-related for the better part of a year because I had been stuck on a historical novel about the Norman Conquest which I originally had been excited about but ended up struggling through). I guess I find sexy vampires only slightly more interesting than the Norman Conquest. Don’t get me wrong — the draft novel is well written and I want to finish it for its own sake, but while I’m reading it I can’t help thinking to myself, “What am I doing? Why am I sitting here reading a sexy vampire novel right now? I have so much other stuff to do!” It feels like a guilty pleasure that I should be indulging in only sparingly. And hence I’m only a quarter of the way through it. But I made such detailed comments and I hate the idea of wasted effort so I’m just going to keep wasting more effort by pecking away, one chapter at a time, until I finish the damn thing three years from now, hand it to my friend, and have him laugh in my face.
  3. Become a Yelp Elite Member. I have vague dreams of becoming a food critic and I’m told the easiest path is to write a shitload of reviews on Yelp. I joined Yelp last month and wrote my first two reviews today. So I have a ways to go.
  4. Organize all the pictures we’ve ever taken and decorate our house. I’ve actually made some progress in this area, but do you know how long it takes to organize every picture you’ve ever taken, especially if you witnessed the rise of the digital camera during your lifetime? FOREVER. I’ve spent countless hours sifting through thousands of pictures trying to determine which ones are worthy of printing. And we keep taking pictures EVERYDAY. The madness has to stop.
  5. Plan our vacation travel. Okay, boo hoo, I’m the default family travel agent responsible for planning all of our travels. Not anything to complain about, I know. But it’s extremely time-consuming and addictive. I could spend all my time fantasizing about trips to fabulous destinations around the world, and if I didn’t have to eat and pee and take care of my children I would do exactly that. I get so consumed by researching travel itineraries and comparing prices that I eventually have to tear myself away to do normal human things. So far I’ve booked flights to a few random places but got so burnt out that I can’t bring myself to read another TripAdvisor review to figure out what happens after the flight. I want to devote all my waking hours to doing only this, but like vampire novels or meth, it feels like a guilty pleasure that should be indulged only sparingly.
  6. Get healthy. I have two very specific goals: touching my toes without bending my knees and doing a real push-up on my toes instead of my knees, two things I have never been able to do in the course of my entire adult life. I actually started exercising a couple of weeks ago. Nothing intense — just 20 minutes of interval training and some arm exercises with light weights a few times a week. As of today I’ve gained a pound, so not exactly the effect I was hoping for. I even signed up for a kickboxing class that’s starting later this week and I’m terrified. My body hates every single second that I’m not reclining on the couch. Exercise is definitely in the category of something I wished I wanted to do but actually can’t stand doing.
  7. Become an actively involved parent. Now that I’m a stay-at-home mom I feel like there’s an expectation that I should do mom things like go to PTA meetings and volunteer as a teacher’s assistant. Trouble is, I don’t really like kids other than my own. And I see school as an opportunity to have a break from my kids, so why would I volunteer to spend time there? Because all the other moms are doing it.
  8. Take over my husband’s pho website. I just have to learn how to use the internet first.
  9. Blog on a regular basis. Ha, that’s going swell.

This is just a smattering of some of my goals and I HAVE ACCOMPLISHED NOTHING. To be fair we were on a road trip for over a month and I was really sick for a week after that. And sometimes I go on a cooking rampage and even parent my children. But the truth is I spend my days doing random ass shit. I had to turn down some legal consulting work because I was too stressed out about not having enough time to do my random ass shit. And I love it. I love that I can turn down work. I love that I get to choose what I do. I even love the stuff I hate doing, because I can stop anytime. I’ll work on a project until it’s boring or I can’t stand it anymore and then move onto the next. I’m not the most productive or efficient person in the world right now, but that’s not one of my goals.

Was this blog post supposed to be about my kids and their first day of school? Yeah, but staying on topic isn’t one of my goals either.

The Privilege of Cruising With Disney

I don’t know if I think about money more than other people, but I think about money a lot. I don’t worry about money; at least, not anymore. I think about the impact that money has on people’s lives, the privileges that it affords, the opportunities that it creates, the frustrations and deprivations that it causes when there’s not enough. I think about people who have never known financial security and never will, and I think about people who have never known anything but comfort and luxury. Maybe I think about these things a lot because I’ve experienced, to a certain degree, both sides of the coin. Not in any extreme way like being a destitute prostitute and then getting picked up by Richard Gere in a sports car. But I know what it feels like to be frustrated and angry about never having any money, to be ashamed of my clothes, to be embarrassed about not being able to do normal things that other people take for granted. My parents did the best they could with the tools they had, but they were often ill-equipped to navigate the difficulties of raising a family in a foreign country, culture, and society. As first generation immigrants, among hundreds of thousands of boat refugees who fled Vietnam in the aftermath of war, they barely spoke English and were relegated to menial, low-wage jobs. And it didn’t help matters that they seemed to hate each other. By the time I finished eighth grade we had bounced around a couple of battered women’s shelters and my mom decided she needed to put some real distance between herself and my father. Less than 24 hours after announcing that she was leaving my father (again), our worldly possessions were stuffed into a cardboard box and a couple of trash bags and our newly single parent household was on a Greyhound bus headed to Lynchburg, Virginia. I didn’t mind living at a battered women’s shelter as much as I minded living out of a cardboard box and a couple of trash bags. Sure there are more important things than worrying about your clothes or appearance, but for a self-conscious 13-year-old starting high school in a new city, a severely limited wardrobe, broken eye glasses, a generic brand backpack and cheap shoes were a daily source of mortification.

Our financial situation improved when my parents got back together and my mom opened her own nail salon. During my sophomore year of high school I got a part time job at a local pharmacy and saved to buy my first car. Still, money was always a concern. From a very young age my parents had instilled a deep anxiety about money — how it was earned, spent, or wasted. I worried about bills long before I ever became responsible for paying them. I dealt with banks, credit card companies, and debt collectors on my parents’ behalf, serving as interpreter and translator, applying for loans or pleading to have loans refinanced, negotiating longer repayment terms or reduced fees, haggling for lower interest rates. If a financial institution didn’t treat my father fairly or give him the result he wanted, I would get yelled at. I dated much older guys and worried about their finances too. Money was always the source of stress and unhappiness, and it made my parents wretched and miserly. I remember my dad screaming at me for wasting too many stamps on my college applications.

I hated being stingy, but couldn’t afford to be any other way. I used to cringe at so many memories involving money or lack of money, like the time I went on a road trip with friends over a long weekend during college spring break. At meals I always ordered the cheapest item on the menu but the group always divvied up the check equally. After this happened a few times, I pretended I wasn’t hungry so I could opt out of the meal entirely. I sat at the restaurant table with my eyes averted, trying to avoid watching people eat as I silently fumed. I was angry and hurt that my friends didn’t realize I couldn’t afford to subsidize their meals, and humiliated for being so petty. I was very conscious of prices, taxes and tip, never bought anything full price if I could help it, vigilantly watched every penny as it was coming and going. On more than a few occasions I had been absolutely devastated by minor financial setbacks. I think my hypersensitivity about money was one of the commonalities that attracted me to Tom. He grew up with even less money than I had and was, consequently, even stingier. We had the same socio-economic value system.

Fast forward to the post-law school, double-income phase of married life, and I can hardly recognize myself. I buy whatever I want at the grocery store, usually opting for the higher-priced, better quality produce. I order whatever I want on the menu; sometimes I forget to look at prices at all. And although I haven’t completely abandoned my frugal roots in favor of unbridled extravagance, when I think about where we started, our lifestyle feels relatively extravagant. I marvel at how freely we spend. Money is no longer a source of stress or resentment, but a source of endless opportunity and enjoyment. We get to do things now that I never would have dreamed of as a child. I’m not only talking about big splurges like a Disney cruise vacation, but little indulgences like a carousel ride at the mall. I remember taking my kids to the local outlet mall and they lit up at the sight of the merry-go-round in the center pavilion. They begged to ride on the embellished plastic ponies, and I happily complied, waiting by the gate with a Wetzel’s pretzel in hand for them to enjoy as soon as they disembarked. As I watched their delighted faces, it occurred to me that this scenario had never happened, could never have happened, in my own childhood. The carousel ride costed $2 per child, and the pretzel costed almost $4. I calculated that I was paying approximately $1 per minute of enjoyment. $8 was nothing; I could spend it without hesitation. But not without some contemplation about how my mother never would have dared spend such a sum on such a frivolous diversion. Not because she didn’t want to, but because it was beyond the realm of possibility. $8 would have put such a dent in her budget that it would have been unfathomable to waste it on a two minute ride and a bite to eat. She was already wringing her hands and tearing out her hair over how to feed and clothe a family of five on the meager allowance that my father doled out each week; non-essential purchases were out of the question.

A Disney cruise has to be the epitome of non-essential purchases, especially for people who don’t particularly enjoy cruising. This wasn’t even the first cruise that my kids have been on; we’d taken them on a Princess cruise just a couple of years earlier. But we wanted to try the Disney experience, and were willing to pay the premium associated with creating magical childhood memories. Not that I’m knocking Disney in any way whatsoever — I’m impressed by the company, the brand, and the business model. As far as the cruising experience goes, Disney does a fantastic job. Our kids didn’t want to leave the ship when it was over. But the same could be said about the park playground, the beach, or their grandmother’s iPad. Kids manage to have fun doing almost anything, which makes me question why people, ourselves included, are always bending over backwards to create memorable and fun-filled experiences for their children? I find that I’m willing to pay ungodly sums of money in furtherance of my children’s happiness, when their happiness actually can be bought very cheaply. It doesn’t take much to elicit squeals of joy; they are just as happy splashing around in a public water fountain as they are playing on an exclusive private beach in the Caribbean. But because we have more money than our parents ever dreamed of having, we feel compelled to buy experiences that we never had access to as children. For example, out of the numerous port excursions advertised by Disney for our island stop at St. Thomas, I booked what I thought it would be the most enjoyable, worthwhile experience for my kids — the dolphin encounter — despite having serious misgivings about animal-related activities in general.

When the kids were very young, we took them to see a traveling circus show that had come to town. After seeing majestic jungle animals reduced to a state of pitiful subjugation, we swore we would never take them to the circus again. Then we saw the documentary Blackfish, about the living conditions of captive killer whales who are forced to perform the same routine for audiences over and over again, day after day for years, and swore we would never patronize Sea World or similar establishments. When I was researching tours for our sojourn in Thailand, I ruled out any tours involving trained elephants or other wild animals after reading about the cruelties perpetrated on these animals for the tourism industry. At the time I booked the dolphin encounter through Disney’s online reservation system, I hadn’t seen any literature specifically addressing the treatment of captive dolphins, which now, in retrospect, seems incredibly naive and possibly willfully ignorant. Of course there’s tons of literature out there and shortly after booking the reservation, I stumbled across an article describing the inhumane conditions imposed on dolphins in captivity, specifically for and because of the ever-expanding cruise ship industry. The article attacked the very activity that we had signed up to do — “swimming with the dolphins” — and laid out all of the horrible consequences inflicted on the animals themselves as well as the marine ecosystem because of our desire to be amused and entertained by these beautiful creatures. Tom readily agreed that we needed to cancel our reservation, but I procrastinated. I procrastinated until it was too late to get a refund, and considering the fact that the dolphin encounter was by far the most expensive port excursion at St. Thomas, it was highly uncharacteristic of me to miss an opportunity to get my money back. It was paid for, and we had to go. We couldn’t let the money go to waste. But if I was being really honest, I might have secretly promised myself that this would be the last time we would actively, consciously participate in the inhumane exploitation of animals for entertainment purposes. If I was being really honest with myself, I would have to acknowledge that for selfish reasons I wanted my children to have this experience, and I was willing to pay the price for it — both economic and ecological (not to mention the bad karma we were generating). I knew that this being a once-in-a-lifetime experience for us wasn’t any kind of justification, because it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for countless other tourists but a daily, endless reiteration of monotonous tasks for the dolphins, who were confined to a tiny fraction of the swimming space afforded by their natural habitat. Dolphins are more intelligent than dogs, and if people wouldn’t subject their dogs to such a lifestyle, why is it acceptable to subject these wild animals to a demeaning, ruinous existence? I never would have had to ask myself these questions if I had remained poor. If my children were raised in the same income bracket in which I had been raised, we never would have been confronted with complicated and guilt-laden choices about which port excursions would be most environmentally conscious and socially responsible. There was no way in hell we would have gotten on a Disney cruise ship in the first place.

There are so many reasons and so many ways to feel guilty on a Disney cruise ship. You can feel guilty for drinking too much. Or eating too much at the buffet. Or wasting food from the buffet. But mostly I felt guilty about the workers, who came from all over the world to serve our drinks and food, to clean our cabin bathroom, and to generally make us feel pampered and privileged. I can’t and don’t criticize Disney for providing employment to so many people. From what I can tell it’s well-paid employment that’s the optimal choice for many people to support their families, travel to exotic locations, and meet people from various cultures. But there’s always the discomfort of recognizing your own privilege when having an experience that your money provided access to, and being confronted by those who reinforce, and who actually carry out and administer the benefits of, your privilege, but who don’t have the same kind of money or access. Maybe we’re all on the same boat literally but we’re definitely not in the same boat. I’m there on vacation, to have my children entertained and cared for while I gorge myself. The employees are there to entertain and care for my children and to enable me to gorge myself with maximum comfort and efficiency. Who knows, maybe some of the employees are similarly situated as me and enjoy lavish family vacations on a regular basis. I doubt that’s true for the majority of the employees, however. I don’t feel guilty for enjoying a vacation that we paid for with money we earned, but I do think about the circumstances that bring people together and define their respective positions. We learned from one of our servers, a lovely woman from Peru named Mindrad, that employees sign six month contracts with Disney and work every day. That means they’re on the cruise ship for six consecutive months without a single day off and don’t see their families and loved ones during that entire time. Mindrad has a degree in child psychology but serving wine and busing tables on a Disney cruise ship turned out to be the best way for her to support her family, including an eight year old son that she doesn’t see for six month periods. I can’t help but compare her situation to my own. I don’t know how much Disney pays but I’m pretty sure being a partner at a law firm pays more. It still wasn’t worth it to me to spend so much of my time away from my children, even though I saw them every day. I quit my job because spending a few hours each week and most weekends with my children was deemed intolerable. I couldn’t imagine being away from them for six months at a time. I’m not making any value judgments, only observing that my options are far different from Mindrad’s. I have the privilege of choosing to work or walking away from a lucrative career to spend more time with my family. Mindrad is being the best mother she knows how to be by working ceaselessly for six month stretches so she can provide an education for her son. We both made what we deemed to be the best decision for our families, but the selections from which we had to choose were very different from one another.

The concept of workers who are paid to cater to tourists doesn’t bother me as much as the behaviors incentivized by a discretionary tipping policy. How workers earn their tips reminds me of how dolphins must perform in order to earn their fish, as insulting as the analogy sounds. Disney’s employees are well-trained to provide excellent customer service. Inquire enough times how the guests are enjoying their vacation, feign enough interest in which excursions and activities the guests participated, call each little girl “princess” X number of times, perform magic tricks Y number of times, and you will be rewarded with big tips, gushing reviews, occupational advancement. Let guests rub your belly, pose for pictures of guests kissing your beak, prop up guests with your fins as they slice through the water, and you will be rewarded with fish. It’s not a perfect analogy because humans are humans and dolphins are dolphins, but one can’t get away from the feeling that neither the humans nor the dolphins would be exhibiting these behaviors without the expenditure of large sums of money and the privileges that it buys. There is a price you can pay to have people pretend to care about how you spend your day, just as there is a price you can pay to force a dolphin to perform tricks that would otherwise be against its nature.

As I said, the analogy isn’t perfect because presumably (hopefully) humans exercise some degree of self-determination and free will. And it’s not meant to be insulting but rather to illustrate how the experience of privilege can be uncomfortable, even distasteful. I’m not saying that people should feel guilty for enjoying the fruits of their labor, but I do believe that people, particularly those who have access to a disproportionate share of wealth and hence a disproportionate share of privilege, power, and opportunity, have a responsibility to stop and think about the consequences of their actions and choices, and to consider how those consequences affect the global community in which we all participate and the resources that we share (and compete for). Anything and everything, even something as seemingly innocuous as a family vacation aboard a Disney cruise ship, has economic and environmental repercussions beyond the memories we create for our nuclear family.

I’m aware that my moral code is not very consistent. I boycott circuses but take my children to the zoo. I find captive marine mammals troubling but continue to eat meat knowing the inhumane ways animals are raised and slaughtered for human consumption. I’m very far from reconciling my actions and lifestyle to my moralistic aspirations; maybe I never will. For now I strive to be thoughtful and deliberate about the choices I make and hope to encourage others to do the same.

Here is a link to our Disney cruise photo album containing obligatory images of a happy family having fun in the sun, but which belies all the hand-wringing and second-guessing underlying the decisions that brought us to that point in our lives, a moment in time filled with joy, gratitude, reflection, guilt, love, all the things — good and bad — that make us who we are.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/J4Ah2x6kSigzb0nc2

We don’t have any photos of our dolphin encounter; they were too expensive.

The First Day of the Rest of My Life

Today is officially the first day of my retirement from law firm life. I’ve been struggling against this decision for a long time but I had a eureka moment several weeks ago when, after yet another all-nighter for yet another deal crisis, I realized that working kind of sucks. Yes, it’s stimulating and challenging and provides money to buy things you want and all that, but it can suck the life force out of you in a way that makes you question, “Why the hell am I doing this?” Especially when I don’t have to? Of course I would continue working if my family’s sustenance depended on it, but it doesn’t. I used to tell people that I would keep working even if I won the lottery because I’ve invested so much time and effort into my career, I genuinely care about developing and honing my professional skills, and I take pride in my earning capacity. Now that my husband’s earning capacity has dwarfed my own, my lottery hypotheticals have flown out the window. I’ve won the husband lottery and I’ll be damned if I don’t take advantage of it. Having the option to not work is a luxury, and I’m not going to let a few awkward conversations about what I do for a living get in the way of me fulfilling my destiny as a trophy wife. “Ummm, I used to be a partner at a law firm but now I make dinner for my family and occasionally blog.” Sure it sounds a little funny but I’ve reached the point in my life where I just don’t care. I don’t care about being a lawyer enough to continue making the sacrifices that it entails. It’s not easy to let go, but it’s time. After paying my dues as a law firm drudge, making partner, taking a yearlong sabbatical, returning to work, slogging through another year and then finally realizing that working is bullshit, my ten year legal career (13 years if you count my stint as a paralegal) is coming to a premature but not untimely end. I kept wanting and trying to hold on as long as I could, to keep doing what I was trained and expected to do until I couldn’t take it anymore. But why? What was I trying to prove, and to whom? What good would it do anyone if I clung to an incredibly stressful, demanding job at the risk of losing my sanity or my health?

Being a lawyer reminds me of childbirth. For the birth of both of my kids I was convinced that if I held off on receiving an epidural for as long as possible, if I could endure the maximum amount of pain, that would somehow make me a better, stronger person, a better mother. After enduring over 50 hours of labor to produce two children, I am a huge fan of the epidural. Hour upon excruciating hour of mind-numbing pain convinced me that contractions were a bullshit way to pass the time and in the end, the epidural couldn’t come fast enough. I was determined to be a lawyer the way I was determined to give birth naturally, without drugs. I hung on for dear life. And when I finally decided that there were other ways I could be living my life, retirement couldn’t come fast enough. Proving I could suffer in no way enhanced my experience of motherhood. Working myself to death doesn’t prove anything except that I’m wasting the short life that I have, my even shorter marriage, and my children’s fleeting childhood, which will be over before I know it.

There is a certain pride in being able to say that I accomplished what I set out to do. All I’d ever wanted to be was a transactional attorney, ever since I moved to San Francisco to become a corporate paralegal at the tail end of the internet start-up bubble, went to law school, and entered the ranks of powerless associates who dreamed of one day being able to call the shots. I became a deal lawyer, a really good one, just like I’d always wanted, and made partner as soon as I was eligible. But I don’t need to continue being one for a few more decades simply because it seems more respectable or prestigious to do so. That I’m opting to retire after a 10 year career instead of a 40 year career doesn’t diminish the fact that I achieved my goal. It’s time to move on to the next one, whatever that may be.

Leaving Las Vegas…

…is bittersweet. I couldn’t help tearing up as I walked through, for the last time, the house that’s been such a good home to us for the past seven years. When we bought it (back in 2007, at the worst possible time), our careers were mere infants, and real infants had yet to be conceived. I get so sentimental thinking that this is the house that our babies were born into, and the site of so many cherished memories.

Goodbye House :~( We'll miss you!
Goodbye House :~( We’ll miss you!

I’m excited about the prospect of moving to a new city and embarking on new adventures, but sad to be leaving friends, neighbors, and colleagues who have made living in Las Vegas so wonderful. I’m also terrified at the prospect of returning to work. I know I should be grateful that I had an entire year to spend as I chose, and I am truly very grateful, but I still can’t help worrying about things like brain atrophy and sleep deprivation.

I don’t know what will happen to this blog. Maybe I’ll continue to post updates once in a while but I certainly can’t say I’m blogging about “Adventures in doing whatever the hell I feel like.” Working at a law firm is probably the opposite of that: you have to do what you’re supposed to, what’s expected of you; do as you’re told by clients, supervisors, management. So why am I returning to a life of discipline, sacrifice, and toil? Because anything worthwhile in life takes discipline, sacrifice, and toil. Over the course of my sabbatical I thought I would have some huge epiphany about the meaning and purpose of life, but I didn’t learn anything that most people don’t already know. Appreciate the small pleasures. It’s about the journey, not the destination. Family means everything. I felt like I was traveling the globe in search of something that was missing, but I had everything I needed because my husband and children were with me. I’ve had the ingredients for happiness all along.

Denver Eats

I’m excited about the food scene in Denver, particularly the gastropubs. Great food paired with great beer is going to wreak havoc on our ever-expanding waistlines.